When it comes to photographing brown bears in Alaska, this is the setup I personally use in the field and what I’ve found works best in real-world conditions.

For brown bear photography, my go-to gear includes:

• Nikkor 100–400mm
• Nikkor 600mm f/4 TC
• Nikkor 24–70mm

When I’m out shooting, I’m constantly switching between my 100–400 and my 600, depending on distance and behavior. That combination gives me the flexibility to react quickly without overthinking it.

The 600mm is what I rely on when I want tight detail, strong subject isolation, and that clean, compressed look. The 100–400 gives me more flexibility when things are moving or the distance is changing quickly.

Then I’ll switch to my 24–70 for environmental shots—those wider images that show the full scene and tell more of the story.

Having that range covered is what allows me to stay flexible in the field and be ready for whatever unfolds next. 

Do You Need a Second Camera Body?

Yes—I absolutely recommend it.

Wildlife doesn’t wait, and the last thing you want is to miss a moment because you’re changing lenses.

Having two camera bodies set up and ready to go means you can move quickly between focal lengths without breaking your rhythm. For me, that usually means one body with the 600mm and another with the 100–400, so I’m covered no matter how the situation changes.

If you don’t currently have two setups but are interested in working this way, it’s definitely something worth trying before investing in more gear. Some excellent camera rental companies make it easy to test out a second setup.

If that’s something you’re considering, feel free to reach out—I’m happy to point you in the right direction.

Best Camera Bodies for Alaska Wildlife Photography

You don’t need the newest camera on the market—but you do need something that can keep up.

When it comes to photographing brown bears in Alaska, your camera needs to handle:

• fast-moving wildlife
• changing light
• unpredictable conditions

I always recommend looking for:

• fast, reliable autofocus (animal detection is a big advantage)
• strong low-light performance
• a high frame rate for action

A lot of what we’re shooting happens early in the morning or later in the evening, and often under overcast skies. Add in fast behavior—especially during salmon runs—and your camera needs to respond quickly without hesitation.

What Camera Settings Work Best for Bears?

This could easily be its own full post, but here’s a simple starting point that will get you in a good place:

• Shutter speed: 1/1000–1/2000 for action
• Aperture: f/4–f/6.3
• ISO: adjust as needed (don’t be afraid to push it)
• Focus mode: continuous (AF-C) with animal detection

The biggest mistake I see is trying to keep ISO too low and ending up with soft images.

If you have to choose, always choose sharp over clean. You can fix noise. You can’t fix motion blur.

Tripods vs Monopods vs Handheld

This really comes down to your shooting style, but here’s how I approach it in Alaska.

• Tripod: great for stability, especially with longer lenses like the 600
• Monopod: gives you more flexibility and is easier to move with
• Handheld: completely doable if you’re comfortable

Personally, I tend to use a tripod when I know I’ll be in one spot for a while. But I always stay ready to move quickly, because wildlife behavior can change in an instant.

There’s no one right answer here—it’s about what allows you to react quickly and stay comfortable throughout the day.

What You Don’t Need (Save Your Energy)

This is just as important as what you bring.

You don’t need:

• every lens you own
• a bag full of accessories
• complicated setups

The more gear you carry, the more you slow yourself down—and the more likely you are to miss the moment.

I always tell people: keep it simple, keep it reliable, and be ready to shoot.

Weather Protection (Don’t Skip This)

Alaska is tough on gear.

You can have the perfect setup, but if you’re not prepared for the weather, it won’t matter.

Make sure you bring:

• rain covers
• dry bags
• extra batteries (the cold drains them quickly)

The goal is to be fully focused on what’s happening in front of you—not worrying about your gear.